It was time to move on and do some serious afternoon cycling on our shrinking tummies. We had found our way on to a good cycle-path and were making good time through seaside wind, when suddenly Sharon disappeared. I looked over my shoulder and Sharon was gone; upon a more thorough examination she could be seen sitting slightly down a bank with her head in her hands. Perhaps leaving sulking Ahrenshoop was harder than I thought. I turned around and cycled back to her, dumped my bike, sat beside a now crying Sharon and asked her what was wrong? She told me she couldn’t go on anymore. I very quickly worked out that she was ‘bonking’. Yes I said ‘bonking’, it is a cycling term for ‘total exhaustion caused by a lack of sufficient food during a prolonged stretch of riding’. Basically two things happen: 1. you really miss your mama and 2. your body just closes down. I had never seen someone bonk before and never knew that it could happen so quickly, this was a fascinating experience for me to witness. I am not sure Sharon felt the same way. We still had a few musli bars in our bag, so I shoved as many of these at Sharon as she could bear. It was just enough to enable her to struggle on to the forlorn town of Dierhagen. Sharon was still totally overwhelmed and ignored my plea to just walk into the first restaurant she found and order as much food as she could. I had to stand back and watch her suffer her way from overpriced tourist-trap to expensive restaurant in search of the more economical choice. She settled on dear kiosk cooked pancakes and within minutes of filling up returned to her usual cycle worn chirpy self.
For the second time this miserable day we skipped town. Because we had been free camping and saving money, because of the threat of rain and because we were ahead of schedule, we decided not to camp and to head to the rather pretty town of Graal-Müritz to look for a B&B. We tried a number of places only to be met with the German growl. The sign ‘Zimmer Frei’ in my experience seems to mean ‘go away stinky tour-cyclists’. I probably need to forgive a few middle-aged frumpy frowning housewives. Just as the rain started falling we stumbled upon a pub called Deutsches Haus that was advertising rooms. It didn’t look good, but by now we were desperate and looking for the camping-ground. The bar was mostly a smokey room of men drinking beer and watching a World War Two movie. I walked up to the bar to be greeted by a rather robust sturdy woman who was friendly and happy to show us her rooms. The place was rather expensive and not flash, but was clean, dry and had a place to lock up our bikes, so we took it.
The early evening was being drizzled with a steady supply of rain, our top priorities were a shower and feed. Fortunately the bathroom did not have smoke detectors and we were able to cook our noodles whilst sitting on the closed toilet. We finished off the evening sitting on our slightly unclean beds watching American Open tennis.
It was a great start to the day and a pleasant end, most of the stuff in-between could simply be described as character building.
All up we probably clocked over about 72km. For some reason my record keeping has failed me a little here, I will have to do better next trip.
Day 1 – Setting Sail
Day 2 – Training, part 1
Day 2 – Training, part 2
Day 3 – New Expectations, part 1
Day 3 – New Expectations, part 2
Day 4 – Cobbles, part 1
Day 4 – Cobbles, part 2
Day 5 – Each Other, part 1
Day 5 – Each Other, part 2
Day 6 – A Sprocket of a Day, part 1
Day 6 – A Sprocket of a Day, part 2
Day 7 – Bonking, part 1
Day 7 – Bonking, part 2
Day 7 – Bonking, part 3
Day 8 – Time Keeping
Day 9 – Homeward
Day 10 – I Love Germany